How To Make The Best Of One Day In Marseille

It is a stunning city by any standard, the Old Port of Marseille gracefully lined with low-rise buildings and hundreds of small boats mixed in with luxury yachts, the kind of view that will stick in your mind until you finally give in and rush to reserve your ticket.

Up on the hill, a majestic basilica stands guard. In the distance, a fortress on a rock at sea inspired one of the outstanding historical novels of all time.

Marseille is a beauty.

It's also, in many ways, one of France's most compelling cities. You'll be beating the crowds as visitors rush past to visit other tourist hot spots in southern France, leaving you to enjoy an unusual, energetic and historic port city.

I spent ten days in Marseille not long ago but I live in France and the city is just over three hours by train from my doorstep.

Most people don't have that much time. Often, the city is a one-day cruise ship stop along the Mediterranean Sea, or a one-day trip if you happen to be nearby, say in Avignon or the Luberon.

One day may not be much, but it is enough to see the high points of the city. Here, let me show you.

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Notre-Dame de la Garde

Begin your day at the iconic basilica, Notre-Dame de la Garde, to watch a breathtaking sunrise over Marseille. Affectionately known as "La Bonne Mère" (The Good Mother), this beautiful building has been a symbol of protection for Marseille's inhabitants since its consecration in 1864.

The basilica's gilded interior, well worth exploring ©OffbeatFrance

The basilica's Neo-Byzantine architecture, designed by Henri-Jacques Espérandieu, is striking, whether you like this style or not.

From almost anywhere in Marseille, not only can you see the basilica but also the bell tower with a gilded statue of the Virgin Mary holding the infant Jesus. The statue, by the way, happens to be hollow, and a staircase inside leads up to her eyes, although this is closed to the public.

The site started as a 13th-century chapel which was fortified in the 16th century to defend the city, but eventually destroyed  during the French Revolution.

Inside, the basilica is adorned with intricate mosaics and ex-votos, tokens of gratitude from sailors and fishermen who believe the Good Mother watched over them at sea.

The panoramic views alone make a visit worthwhile...

One of the panoramic views from the basilica over Marseille ©OffbeatFrance

Given the early hour, public transport may be limited (the bus starts at 7am). Consider arranging a taxi or using a rideshare service like Bolt or Uber to reach the basilica.

By the time you leave, the bus should be running. It's Number 60 and leaves from the small square at the basilica's entrance. Get off at Vieux Port. La Caravelle is close by.

Another option is to walk down from the basilica. But a word of warning: this is going to be a long day so you might want to save your energy!

Morning coffee at La Caravelle

If you rushed out to catch the sunrise and are desperate for coffee, head for La Caravelle. It's a historic bar, with a maritime vibe, a favorite with locals and visitors since the 1920s. It's on the first floor of the Hôtel Belle-Vue, so you'll get great views of the harbor and can watch the city wake up.

You can even have a full breakfast here but make it quick!

Le Panier District

A few minutes' walk from La Caravelle and you'll be in the heart of Le Panier, Marseille's oldest neighborhood, founded by the Phoceans.

This is one of the most popular parts of the city, almost too much so, when crowds overrun its narrow streets in search of colorful façades, artisan boutiques and galleries.

By going off season, you'll enjoy the area even more, and without thousands of tourists, it will also feel far more authentic.

Much of Le Panier looks as it has for centuries, although part of it was destroyed by Nazi forces during World War II and rebuilt in the mid-19th century. Still, the heart of Le Panier remains unchanged.

A typical street in Le Panier ©OffbeatFrance

A visit to La Vieille Charité, a striking 17th-century almshouse designed by architect Pierre Puget, should definitely be part of your visit.

Originally built as a poorhouse, it's now a cultural center and museum (and also has a clean toilet, in case you're searching).

La Vieille Charité in Marseille's Le Panier district ©OffbeatFrance

Mucem and Fort Saint Jean

When you emerge from the Panier, you'll probably be in front of Cathédrale de La Major. I wouldn't spend too much time inside − I found it more stunning from the outside. Just before the cathedral, you might see a line on your left, for some of the best ice cream in town.

Cathédrale La Major in Marseille ©OffbeatFrance

Across from the cathedral and to your left, follow the water back towards the Vieux Port to the Museum of European and Mediterranean Civilizations, or Mucem. It's huge and you won't be able to do it justice in an hour-and-a-half, but it's a start.

It's an architectural marvel, with a latticework façade that symbolizes the connection between land and sea, given Marseille's role as a crossroads of cultures.

One of the walkways around the Mucem, and a closeup of the museum's lattice-work. You can see Notre Dame de la Garde on the hill beyond ©OffbeatFrance

Inside, you'll find temporary exhibits dealing with different facets of Mediterranean culture, from food to history, depending on when you visit. If you're an underwater cave fan, next door is the Cosquer Museum, which replicates a prehistoric cave found underwater further along the coast.

After the Mucem, walk back into town through Fort Saint-Jean,  built in 1660 by Louis XIV. Interestingly, this fort was built as a defence against attackers but also to keep an eye on the local population, to ensure their loyalty to the crown. Its walkways and gardens are a pleasure to wander around and look out over the city and sea.

Cours Julien

By now you've worked up an appetite and if you're a fan of street art, you won't want to miss the Cours Julien.

This was once the city's main fruit and vegetable market, from about 1860 to 1970, but now it is a hub for artists and creatives, with tons of street art and murals and graffiti, some of which you may like, and some of which you don't. But the area is renowned and you should see for yourself. 

Even if you have limited time, you can still catch a quick lunch at one of the restaurants around the square, and explore the side streets for some street art.

The Cours Julien has a world culinary scene, with all sorts of world restaurants − Ethiopian, Palestinian, Brazilian, Indian... and French, of course. Most are small, casual establishments and if you get there early, you should easily find a table.

The streets around Cours Julien are filled with colorful mural art ©OffbeatFrance

It's a 15-minute walk from the end of the Vieux Port, at Quai des Belges, to Cours Julien. If you're saving your energy, grab a rideshare or taxi to get here, or take the subway: Metro Line 1 at Vieux-Port towards La Rose for one stop and get off at Saint-Charles. Then transfer to Metro Line 2 towards Sainte-Marguerite Dromel and get off at Notre-Dame du Mont – Cours Julien (2 stops, approximately 5 minutes). You'll arrive right in the heart of things.

Château d’If

If you lunched in Cours Julien, you can walk back in 20 minutes to the ferry station or hop the metro back the way you came.

The timing is very tight but to me, this trip was one of the highlights of my visit to Marseille. If you've read the Count of Monte Cristo, you might feel the same. 

This formidable fortress, constructed between 1527 and 1529 under King François I, was initially intended to defend Marseille from sea invasions. However, it gained notoriety as a state prison, immortalized in Alexandre Dumas' novel "The Count of Monte Cristo." Exploring its storied cells and ramparts offers a tangible connection to literary and historical narratives.

Ferries to the rocky outcrop leave every half-hour or so, but schedules vary depending on the season. Make sure you check their website, and reserve your ticket in advance. If you're on the fence about visiting the island, you can read what I had to say about the Château d'If here. 

The forbidding Château d'If seen from the approaching ferry ©OffbeatFrance

Once you're back from the Château d'If, you can stroll along the Vieux-Port, relax in a café, or, why not visit the Savonnerie Marseillaise, the small soap museum? As you know, Marseille soap is world famous, and this little museum shows off its history. It's tiny and won't take long, but you'll get  insights into the traditional craft of soap-making, a practice deeply embedded in the city's history.

If you haven't read the Monte Cristo book or seen the movie, you might want to give the Château d'If a miss and spend more time at the Cours Julien, or head to the Palais Longchamp for some more "classical" art.