This Epic Road Trip Will Change The Way You Look At Southern France

The south of France doesn't really have any borders and covers a large part of the region.

Provence is the stuff of dreams, and this 10-day south of France road trip covers many of my favorite sights of this huge, glorious region.

But let me set the record straight about the south of France: it can mean almost anything, as you'll soon see.

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Day 1: Arles

Your south of France tour must include Arles! The heart of old Arles is relatively large, but not too large to explore on foot. Everything is within walking distance and the layout of the town makes mapping a route easy. You'll need one day to see Arles and even so, you won't see it all – but possibly enough to make you want to return.

Vincent Van Gogh trail

So much in this city is dedicated to the artist Vincent van Gogh, from the foundation that bears his name to the places he lived and worked to the 187 scenes he painted while he lived here. Follow in van Gogh's footsteps in Arles and discover what inspired him so.

The Amphitheater 

Arles was once a provincial capital of the Roman Empire and is doted with Roman ruins. The Amphitheater is a stunning venue and today hosts plays, concerts or corridas, as well as the occasional fashion or light show. But the city has plenty more, including a magnificent arena and ancient theater. Have a look at Arles' tremendous roman heritage.

Luma Arles

Designed by Frank Gehry, this latest addition to the Arles art scene is quite the structure, in and out. Walk around and admire the exterior before taking in the permanent and temporary exhibitions. The newest must-see.

Rhône River

The shores of the Rhône River are a perfect ending to the day – and part of the reason for Van Gogh's enchantment with this city will be made clear by the riverside, especially after the sun has set, where he often painted.

Day 2: Camargue

The Camargue is an area of wild beauty, different from other parts of France. As a wetland, its salt marshes are paradise for bird-lovers, but this is also where many of the south's bulls are raised – you can visit a farm and ride some of the famed Camargue horses, if you'd like. 

If you're not in the mood to drive, you can take a half-day tour from Avignon to the Camargue and just go along for the ride.

Parc Ornithologique du Pont de Gau

I could have spent most of my day here, watching flamingos at the height of the breeding season, which runs from December to March. This bird park is a perfect introduction to a day trip in Camargue, region of salt marches and home to a wide variety of birds. It's an easy walking circuit, more of a stroll, really, with plenty of bushes and inlets.

Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer

At the edge of the Camargue, where it meets the Mediterranean, the small town of Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer is the area's capital, fabled for its folklore. Its church of the same name is a place of pilgrimage for Europe's Roma populations and was built to protect holy relics, especially their patron saint, the "Black Virgin" Saint Sara, whose statue located in the downstairs area of the church.

Each year, towards the end of May and October, Saint Sarah is celebrated and a multitude of pilgrims converge here. You may want to witness this, but beware that these are crowded times in Saintes Maries and not necessarily the best to visit.

LEGENDS OF SAINT SARA

Each year (except during Covid), on 24 May, Saint Sara - patron saint of gypsies - is removed from her crypt in the church of Notre-Dame-de-la-Mer (Our Lady of the Sea) and carried to the sea, where she will be submerged.

Ceremonies, services, vigils, all take place during the next few days as thousands of pilgrims from Europe's various nomadic tribes converge here for a week of festivities, prayer and family gatherings. Guitars, candles and prayer strengthen the fervour of those for whom the "Black Virgin" is a spiritual beacon.

Her name is Kali, a resemblance to the Hindu goddess Kali ("she who is black"), reinforcing the belief that the Roms and other nomadic Europeans came from India during the 9th century.

You may be familiar with the "Three Marys", Christian women who followed Jesus and witnessed his crucifixion and resurrection. According to one legend (of many), Sara traveled with them as a maid as they went to France from the Holy Land, landing and settling near Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer. The church was built to hold her relics.

Visit a manade

Breeding bulls and horses is a centuries-old tradition in the Camargue, and takes place in manades – or large open areas – where they are left to reproduce in freedom. You can visit a manade for a few hours during your Camargue trip and find out more about the tradition. The tourist office can help you organize your manade visit.

Day 3: Nîmes

Known as the "French Rome", Nîmes grew rapidly in Roman times, situated as it was along the Via Domitia, the road that led from Rome to what was then called Hispania. This is a city with an incredible Roman heritage and some exquisite monuments that remain standing despite the centuries.

Arènes de Nîmes

This is a perfect example of Rome's impressive architecture. It's more of an amphitheater, though, one of the best preserved in the world. 

It was built in 70 CE, right after its Roman counterpart was finished and, like other arenas, it was built for shows of all kinds, like gladiator combats.

THE TRANSFORMATION OF THE NÎMES ARENA

With the waning of the Roman Empire and the arrival of the "Barbarians", the Nîmes Arena lost its role as an entertainment center and was turned into a fortress to defend the city. It was partly closed off and its archways sealed.

Over time, people moved inside the arena, putting up houses and churches. It took the 16th century and French King François I, builder extraordinaire, to begin rehabilitating the structure.

He began by clearing the buildings from the first floor, but the ground floor was still home to hundreds of people. Proper restoration would have to wait until the 18th century.

Today, the arena has a number of different uses: concert venue, film location, part of a cycling route... and, sadly, bullfights: Nîmes is considered the bullfighting capital of France. In most of France, bulls are not killed during a bullfight – unless it can be proven that the town has a historical claim to the practices. Both Arles and Nîmes claim this and hence, bulls here are killed. In recent years, the anti-bullfight movement has been gaining steam, with more people unwilling to see animals submitted to any kind of torture.

The statue out front, by the way, commemorates Nimeño II, a famous bullfighter.

La Maison Carrée

This is probably the best-preserved Roman temple in the world and intriguingly, it has an odd number of steps. Priests would have placed their right foot on the first step, ending with the right foot at the top. In this way, they neither started nor ended on the left foot, deemed unlucky.

Musée de la Romanité

This modern interactive museum right across from the Amphitheater is a highlight of Nîmes. They excavated deeply during building and found the foundations of a magnificent Roman villa, including an impressive and beautifully preserved mosaic. The museum traces the history of Nîmes right through to the Middle Ages. Get your tickets here.

Pont du Gard

Heading from Nîmes to the Camargue, you'll come across the Pont du Gard, the tallest Roman aqueduct in the world. I remember as a child, we could climb to the very top, and I don't believe there was even a railing back then.

You can visit on a guided tour, or hike along the aqueduct, or even kayak past it on a hot summer day. The aqueduct can get crowded in high season so make sure you get your ticket ahead of time.

Days 4, 5 and 6: Luberon

Made (in)famous by Peter Mayle's original A Year in Provence, the Lubéron region has become a compulsory stop on the way south.

Choose less-visited villages, or do your sightseeing very early in the morning or late in the evening (in summer, it's so hot you may have no choice).

I love winter in this region, but sadly, with few tourists around, many places are closed, so my advice would be to visit during the shoulder season, or in late June if you're headed for the nearby lavender fields.

Bonnieux

Bonnieux is larger than many of the hilltop villages of the Luberon, and is stunning upon approach. 

Its 12th-century Vieille Église (Old Church), reached by an 86-stone step climb, commands stunning views over the valley and towards the Monts de Vaucluse. Strolling through Bonnieux’s narrow, winding streets, you’ll encounter delightful bakeries, inviting cafés, and local artisans’ shops that showcase the region's rich craftsmanship.

The weekly Friday market is a must-visit and combines local foods with clothing items and scarves. And if you're a hiker, there's plenty to explore here, especially the Cedar Forest Trail.

Goult

Goult is a hidden village, a "village caché" in French, close to all the others but a bit off the tourist path and somewhat more peaceful.

The heart of Goult is its well-preserved medieval center, where cobblestone streets swerve around ancient stone houses adorned with blooming flowers, including the village’s centerpiece, the Château de Goult. You'll find charming squares, historic churches, and the remarkable Moulin de Jerusalem, a beautifully restored windmill symbolizing the village's agricultural heritage.

Whether exploring its scenic walking trails or partaking in village festivals, visitors to Goult experience a slice of authentic Provencal charm, untouched by the rush of modern tourism.

Lacoste

Lacoste has an unusual history. During the Wars of Religion, it was a Protestant fiefdom in a sea of Catholicism.

In the 18th century, the notorious Marquis de Sade owned the Château de Lacoste. Known for his libertine lifestyle and explicit writings, he was ultimately imprisoned for his depravity.

Fast forward to 2001, when fashion icon Pierre Cardin purchased the château and numerous village houses, envisioning Lacoste as a thriving arts and cultural hub. 

By the time of his death in 2020, he had acquired and restored about 50 buildings in the village. Several of these properties now belong to the Savannah College of Art and Design (SCAD), which it uses for its European campus in Lacoste.

Be ready for steep cobblestone paths, especially treacherous when wet, as you explore this offbeat village.

Roussillon

Roussillon is a small village, its houses various hues of ochre – this was an ochre-mining center for years. Today, it is full of galleries and artisan shops, and a stunning view that opens up on the Luberon valley.

The village's highlight, at least for me, is its Ochre Trail, which takes at least half an hour to walk. The remains of the ochre hills, which sit atop the world's biggest ochre deposit, are quite spectacular, and threaten to change the color of your shoes whether you want it or not.

This is what you'll see as you walk along Roussillon's Ochre Trail, one of many striking sights. The trail is relative easy but full of stairs ©Leyla Alyanak/OffbeatFrance

Gordes and the Village des Bories

Gordes is one of my favourite Lubéron villages and no visit is complete without it. Even a short stroll through the village will give you a sense of its beauty; just beware, there isn't much parking (especially on Tuesday morning, market day).

Before you get to Gordes, on the climb up, you'll see a sign for the Villages des Bories, made of typical mortar-free dry stone walls of the region. The bories have been used to store tools or even as dwellings, but they were originally built to dispose of excess stones removed to clear farmland.

Classic dry stonework of Gordes used in a "borie", an ancient storage shack

Abbaye Notre-Dame de Sénanque

Not far from Gordes, this (still active) 12th-century Cistercian monastery is one of the can't-miss places if you want to see lavender (or you can drive around the countryside at the end of June or beginning of July and see it everywhere).

But at Senanque, you also get to visit the monastery and explore its history, as well as the daily lives of the monks who live here. Just remember it's a working monastery – a lot of visitors seem to think it's only there as an Instagram backdrop and treat the venue with disrespect.

You can walk here from Gordes if you're in the mood (just remember, Gordes is uphill from the abbey so at some point you'll have to walk back). Here's where to get your tickets.

Day 7: Les Alpilles

Les Alpilles, a small mountain range area between Avignon and Arles, is renowned for its dramatic limestone peaks, rolling olive groves, and vineyards that stretch as far as the eye can see. This area combines history with hiking and is a much loved part of Provence.

Les-Baux-de-Provence

This medieval village isn't really a full-day trip (at least not in my opinion) but you cannot really miss Les Baux de Provence if you're in the area. Get there early if you want to park anywhere near the entrance, or prepare for the uphill walk along the cobblestone streets. The village itself is part of the Most Beautiful Villages of France network, and rightly so. Consider coming in the evening, spending the night, and visiting in the morning before the crowds have arrived.

These are the remains of the chateau dominating the pinnacle of the village, an interesting fortress, but the reason you really come here is the panorama over the entire region. Unsurpassed.

Carrières de Lumières

This spectacular light and sound show takes place inside an old quarry, ideal if you want to get away from the summer heat and want a truly unusual experience.

The exhibition changes yearly to highlight a different artist and civilizations – van Gogh, Michelangelo, Klimt, Chagall, Dali, Picasso... or Ancient Egypt or Rome. Wear a jacket.

If you're not in the mood to drive (and find a parking space), you can also take a tour to Les Baux and the quarry from Avignon.

The light shows change regularly, and when I last visited, Ancient Egypt was being featured ©Leyla Alyanak/OffbeatFrance

Saint-Rémy-de-Provence

Since Les Baux will not take you an entire day, push on across the mountain to Saint-Rémy-de-Provence, a perfect addition if you love van Gogh, Roman ruins, or both.

Van Gogh's room at the Saint-Paul de Mausole asylum in Saint-Remy ©Leyla Alyanak/OffbeatFrance

After having followed in his footsteps in Arles, you can share the second half of his Provence journey here. There's a walking trail from town that includes panels of his paintings against the actual scenes he painted, and at the end, you can visit the asylum in which he interned himself.

Right next door to the asylum (all this is walking distance) are the stunning Greco-Roman ruins of Glanum, which was abandoned in 260 CE but rediscovered during 20th-century excavations.

Ruins of Glanum outside Saint-Remy-de-Provence, right next to the asylum where van Gogh interned himself ©Leyla Alyanak/OffbeatFrance

Day 7 Option: Avignon

Avignon is for history lovers, its UNESCO World Heritage Site a perfect introduction to medieval France.

This is where the French popes lived during the 14th-century schism when French popes split with Rome. The palace of the popes is the largest gothic structure of its kind in the world, and the bridge (now partly gone) has major cultural significance as the subject of a children's song we all learn at the youngest age. At the same time, Avignon is compact enough so that you can visit most highlights even if you only have one day.

Avignon city ramparts

Avignon is one of the few French cities that still has defensive walls, which were built during the Avignon papacy – they are an impressive 4.3 km (2.7 mi) long.

Palais des Papes

This fortress cum palace is one of the biggest gothic constructions of the Middle Ages in Europe and for decades served as the heart of the papacy in Avignon, when the popes left Rome and moved to France. The entrance ticket includes a tablet which recreates what parts of the palace would have looked like back when the popes lived here. Or, combine your Papal Palace visit with a walking tour of Avignon.

Pont d'Avignon

Across of the Palace of Popes is one of France's most famous bridges, the Pont d'Avignon. Every French child knows the song of the same name so even though part of it has been washed away by the mighty Rhône River, a visit to the bridge will mean paying respect to one of France's most recognizable symbols.

Days 8 & 9: Marseille

Marseille has its admirers and detractors, but there's no denying its natural beauty, its harmonious architecture, and the cultural place it has been occupying since it was named European Capital of Culture in 2013.

There's so much to see and do that I've allocated two days to the city – even though I recently spent a week there and barely saw everything I wanted to. (You can visit Marseille for a day with this 24-hour day pass, for unlimited public transportation and entrance to the top attractions.)

First, though, let's address the elephant in the room: safety. Marseille is often said to be a dangerous city and if this is something that concerns you, I address it in this piece which asks: Is Marseille safe?

Its ancient neighbourhoods and graceful port make it visually attractive and historically important, but it has retained a certain grittiness from its rough and tumble days.

But France isn't only about pretty villages and colorful markets. This is France, too. 

Below are some of Marseille's top attractions but if you're short on time, consider taking one of these city tours:

• The Best of the City in 4 Hours
• No Diet Marseille Food Tour

Basilique Notre-Dame de la Garde

This Byzantine basilica (Rue Fort du Sanctuaire) provides the best aerial view of the beautiful bay of Marseille. Its informal name is "La Bonne Mère", the Good Mother, and when you look at it you'll understand why: it seems to be watching over the city.

Château d'If

If you've ever read the novels of Alexandre Dumas, he of the "Three Muskateers" fame, you may have come across the Count of Monte Cristo. A lengthy but entertaining novel about love and revenge, a hapless sailor is betrayed by a friend and ends up in the ghastly fortress-prison just off the coast of Marseille, the Château d'If.

It is easy to reach, with boats leaving regularly from the Old Port. You can also extend your trip to the Frioul Islands for a bit of sun and swimming.

The forbidding entrance to the Château d'If ©Leyla Alyanak/OffbeatFrance

Le Panier

Le Panier is Marseille's oldest district, dating back to 600 BCE and the Greek foundation of the city.

There are plenty of sights in the area but one of the best ways to see it is to simply wander the narrow, pedestrian streets. There's plenty of history here, so I took a guided walking tour to have someone explain it all, and then went back to revisit on my own.

You can visit the Vieille Charité, a stunning 17th-century building that now houses museums and cultural centers (and has very clean bathrooms!), and visit the Cathédrale de la Major, a Romanesque and Byzantine architectural marvel that overlooks the Mediterranean.

On the left, the La Major cathedral, and on the right, the tip of the MUCEM ©Leyla Alyanak/OffbeatFrance

MUCEM

The Musée de la Civilisation de l’Europe et de la Méditerranée − or European and Mediterranean civilization − was built in 2013 when Marseille was named European Capital of Culture. It regularly holds fascinating exhibitions that shed a light on this corner of the world − and the building itself is extraordinary, a stunning cube of concrete lace.

While I enjoyed the exhibitions (there was one on food and history when I visited) the building is best admired from the outside, from any angle. There's nothing quite like it. And it's not the only museum in Marseille worth visiting...

Day 10: The Calanques

You'll find the Calanques National Park between Marseille and Cassis. If you're driving from Marseille, the D559 road will take you through the stunning calanques panoramas to the delightful town of Cassis.

Parking can be difficult, and public transportation to Cassis scarce, so you may decide to simply hop a boat from Marseille to go visit the Calanques from there. Both ways – from Marseille or from Cassis – are feasible, although there are more calanques, or tiny inlets, on the Marseille side.

And since you've driven plenty and seen a lot of France, perhaps today is the day to relax a bit and enjoy the seashore.

Parc National des Calanques

From Cassis, you can get to the calanques inlets in several ways – you can walk to the first one, Port-Miou, and then on to Port Pin and beyond. Hiking the calanques is a wonderful way of experiencing these natural formations. You can drive between the calanques but bear in mind that the area is heavily touristed and some calanques are limiting the number of visitors. Instead, try one of the short walks to experience the beauty of this area, or better yet, visit by boat.

Port de Cassis

Should you decide to take a chance on parking and drive to Cassis, this charming fishing village is perfect for a rest and a meal after your calanque walk or boat ride. Relax, have a drink, take a few pictures... after the intensity of Marseille, you'll welcome a slower day.

Day 10 Option: Aix-en-Provence

Known as the "City of a Thousand Fountains," Aix-en-Provence's fountains and tree-lined boulevards have long attracted visitors to its narrow labyrinthine streets. You can drive or take the train, but you can also take a tour to Aix-en-Provence from Marseille (this one also includes Cassis).

Explore to your heart's content, sit in a café, enjoying the aroma of fresh pastries, or head out to the countryside to gaze upon scenes made famous by painter Paul Cézanne, who was born here.

If you're short on time, a good option is to take a guided walking tour to see as much of the city as you can in just a few hours.

One of the many beautiful fountains you'll find in Aix-en-Provence

Cours Mirabeau

You could probably stroll along the Cours Mirabeau and do little else, and you'd still get a sense of the city. This grand boulevard is the essence of a Provençal city, flanked by plane trees and historical mansions (now turned into chic boutiques or cafés), not to mention the fountains for which the city is known. If you stop at the famous Les Deux Garçons, you will be frequenting a café in which Paul Cézanne and Émile Zola also sat.

People-watching is the best sport here, and you'll see them all, from students and families to business leaders and politicians. This is where many of the city's events are held, whether the Christmas market or the book fair.

Saint-Sauveur Cathedral and Cloister

The Cathédrale Saint-Sauveur was built in several stages, starting in the 5th century, so it's a blend of architecture, from Romanesque to Gothic to Baroque, magnificent both inside and outside. It also holds some works of art, including the renowned triptych of the Burning Bush by Nicolas Froment.

Perhaps even more attractive is the adjacent cloister, a tranquil hideaway from the bustle of Aix and an example of the religious art and architecture so prevalent in this region.

Follow in the footsteps of Cézanne

This is one of the most rewarding things to do in Aix-en-Provence if you're an art lover.

Throughout the city, you can follow the "C" carvings and visit all the places that either inspired Cézanne or are linked somehow with his life and art. This guide by the tourist office shows you the highlights of the circuit.

Where to stay in Southern France

To get the most out of your trip, I suggest you base yourself in a few places rather than switch every night or two.

• For Arles and the Camargues, I recommend Arles as your base. 
• For Marseille and the coast, I recommend Marseille.
• For the Luberon, I suggest Bonnieux (or any of the nearby villages).

You'll find all the available hotels and holiday homes on the map below. Just click on it to enlarge.