The Best 5-Day Luberon Itinerary For Exploring Provence’s Hilltop Villages

The Luberon, with its winding roads through vineyards, olive groves and lavender fields, is a region made to be explored slowly.

Straddling the départements of the Vaucluse and Alpes-de-Haute-Provence, the Luberon is known for its historic hilltop villages, deep-rooted traditions and agricultural heritage.

Villages like Gordes, Roussillon, and Ménerbes stand above the landscape, their stone buildings shaped by centuries of history, offering some of the most striking views in Provence.

In just five days by car, you can see the highlights and even enjoy a bit of downtime, all in one of the most beautiful spots in France.

🚗 Morning: Arrival and Check-in in Bonnieux

🚗 Afternoon: Explore Gordes and Sénanque Abbey (30 min drive)

• Visit Gordes, one of France’s most stunning hilltop villages, known for its stunning stone architecture and panoramic views. At the top is a Renaissance-era château and a web of narrow cobblestone streets that wind through lovely squares, ancient churches and traditional houses built from local limestone. 

• Explore the nearby Cistercian Abbey of Sénanque (famous for lavender fields in June-July). While I usually drive there (it only takes about 10 minutes, if I recall) you can also hike, if you like a vigorous walk. Just remember you’ll be walking downhill to get there, and uphill all the way back.

• Optional: Village des Bories (ancient dry-stone huts) – I know they’ve been tarted up a bit for tourists but unless you have a friend with a borie in her back yard, this may be your only chance to visit these odd-looking stone shacks that were once used as seasonal shelters and agricultural buildings. The entrance to the village is at the bottom of Gordes, before you climb up. Look for the signs.

🚗 Return to Bonnieux for dinner

🚗 Morning in Roussillon (15 min drive from Bonnieux)

• Explore Roussillon’s lovely streets, lined with artisan shops, cafés and restaurants. On your way up, stop at the Maison Brémond for some flavored olive oils to take home with you. At the top of the village, discover the clock tower and remnants of an ancient castle, a great place for expansive views over the ochre cliffs and the Luberon Valley.

• Walk the Sentier des Ocres (Ochre Trail). This is a path through former ochre quarries that delivers stunning scenery. It’s located right in the heart of Roussillon and only takes half an hour (there is also a longer loop). You’ll walk past exposed cliffs and rock formations that tell the story of ochre in this part of the world. The trail is easy but does have stairs and a bit of unevenness. And don’t forget to wear the right shoes (not white!)

🚗 Late Morning: Gargas Ochre Mines (10 min drive from Roussillon)

• Take a guided tour of the Mines de Bruoux (~1 hour). You’ll have to reserve but these mines are well worth seeing, even if the explanations are all in French. You won’t be able to take photos, but you’ll explore a labyrinth of underground galleries, which once made ochre production such an important of the local economy.

🚗 Afternoon in Goult

• Walk through this charming, not-so-touristy village. Take a stroll up to the Jerusalem Windmill, by a 12th-century church and the remains of a medieval château. The village has a network of old stone streets, with a few shops, cafés and restaurants. There's a real château in the center of the village but sadly (for us) it's privately owned and can't be visited.

• It’s not unusual to find artists at their easels reproducing the cobblestone streets. I love the local feel of this village, and make sure you look for the telltale wooden sculptures by resident artist Jacques Frejabue, nicknamed "Coucoune”, whose specialty is carving trees.

🚗 Return to Bonnieux for dinner.

🚗 Early Afternoon in Lacoste (10 min drive from Ménerbes)

• If you have time on your way to Lacoste, stop at the Saint Hilaire Abbey, a former Carmelite convent built on a steep slope facing the Luberon. This is a wonderful example of 13th-century architecture and is open to the public (of which there are thankfully few). 

• The village is dominated by the Château de Lacoste, which was once the residence of the Marquis de Sade and is open to visitors. In the 1990s, fashion designer Pierre Cardin bought and partly restored the château, turning it into a venue for cultural events, including an annual summer festival featuring opera, theater and music performances. Wander around Lacoste's narrow  streets and well-preserved stone houses and visit the modern sculptures in the gardens of the chateau. I’ve written all about Lacoste here.

The entrance to Lacoste Castle ©OffbeatFrance

🚗 Late Afternoon in Oppède-le-Vieux (10 min drive from Lacoste)

• The medieval village of Oppède-le-Vieux is a bit offbeat, at the end of a winding road and an uphill path. The occasional tourist does find their way here, but by and large, you’ll have the old stone village to yourself. 

• All that uphill walking will lead you to the (closed-to-the-public) ruins of the old château and the (very much open) 12th-century Church of Notre-Dame d’Alydon, with its faded frescoes and panoramic views over the Luberon’s vineyards and olive tree groves. 

🚗 Return to Bonnieux for dinner

Day 4: Lourmarin and Cucuron 

🚗 Morning in Lourmarin (30 min drive)

• Explore Lourmarin, one of the Luberon’s liveliest villages, with plenty of cafés and boutiques, and a Friday market. Unlike the hilltop villages, it sits in a valley, surrounded by vineyards and olive groves which attracted writers and artists, including Albert Camus, who is buried here. 

• Explore the Château de Lourmarin. The 15th-century castle was originally built as a fortress before being transformed into a Renaissance residence and eventually restored in the 20th century. Wander around its grand halls, vaulted ceilings and spiral staircases, and enjoy the views from the terrace over the village and vineyards.

One of the eclectic rooms of the Château de Lourmarin ©OffbeatFrance

🍽 Lunch in Lourmarin

• Le Moulin de Lourmarin (elegant and refined)
• Budget option: Café Gaby (simple but delicious, quick and hearty)

🚗 Afternoon in Cucuron (15 min drive)

• Cucuron is best known for its Étang de Cucuron, a large, rectangular water basin shaded by towering plane trees in the central square. The village, not as touristy as many others, has medieval origins, with stone ramparts, a 14th-century keep and the Church of Notre-Dame-de-Beaulieu, with Romanesque and Gothic elements. 

🚗 Return to Bonnieux for dinner.

L'Etang de Cucuron, which you may recognize from Ridley Scott's film "A Good Year" ©OffbeatFrance

Day 5 (Sunday): L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue Market and Fontaine-de-Vaucluse

I placed this at Day 5 on a whim, but it can be any day, as long as it’s a Sunday.

If you’re not spending a Sunday in the Luberon at all, then consider driving to Avignon or Saint-Remy for this day.

All types of antiques can be found at the Sunday flea market in Isle-sur-la-Sorgue ©OffbeatFrance

🚗 Morning: L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue (Best on Sundays) (30 min drive)

• L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue isn’t technically in the Luberon, but we can agree it’s just “over the border”. You’ll be a lot closer to it than to some of the more distant Luberon towns… L’Isle-sur-Sorgue, as the name is often shortened, is just west of the Luberon, but once you’re in the area, don’t miss this lovely town, especially if you’re here in time for the famous Sunday market, one of France's largest.

• L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue is known for its canals, historic water wheels, and thriving antique markets. Once a fishing village, it grew into a hub for textiles and paper-making, powered by the Sorgue River. Today, it attracts visitors for its antiques, not just at the Sunday market, but the many antique shops throughout town, all open on Sundays. Its reputation as the “Venice of Provence” comes from its network of waterways, with plenty of waterwheels you won't be able to resist. 

🍽 Early Lunch in L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue: Make sure you reserve – Sundays are crowded.

• Le Jardin du Quai (romantic garden dining)
• Budget option: Grab local delicacies from the market for a picnic

One of the town's many waterwheels ©OffbeatFrance

🚗 Afternoon: Option 1 – Fontaine de Vaucluse (10 min drive)

• Fontaine-de-Vaucluse is home to one of the deepest natural springs in the world, a source that has fascinated geologists, poets and travelers for centuries. It feeds the Sorgue River which flows through town. The site inspired Petrarch, the 14th-century poet, who lived here and wrote about its beauty. You can follow a short (and distinctly uphill) path from the village to the spring, passing museums, historic ruins and old paper mills, which once fed on the river’s power.

🚗 Afternoon: Option 2 – the Plague Wall (15 min drive)

• On summer Sundays, Fontaine-de-Vaucluse can be very crowded so if you’re looking for nature or solitude, head for the Plague Wall (Mur de la Peste) near Cabrières-d’Avignon, a historic dry-stone wall built in 1720-1722 to prevent the spread of the Great Plague of Marseille (a lockdown: sound familiar?) into the Comtat Venaissin. The best place to start a visit is at the Cedar Forest (Forêt des Cèdres) parking area in Cabrières-d’Avignon. Just follow the well-marked trail through a shaded forest. You can also start from Lagnes, although I did, and got pleasantly lost.

🚗 Return to Bonnieux for dinner.

There are bits and pieces of wall - some is intact, but some has been destroyed. I visited during our own lockdown and was fascinated by the historical parallel ©OffbeatFrance

Things to know before you go

There are several ways to visit the Luberon, some easier than others.

This particular itinerary is a road trip, so you'll be driving. There is precious little public transportation in the region so to follow it, you'll have to do it by car.

If you don't want to drive and still want to see some of these highlights, I have two additional suggestions:

• You can join a small group tour like European Experiences, which I've taken myself and can highly recommend.

• You can take a day trip to the Luberon from Avignon or Marseille or Aix-en-Provence.

Driving in the Luberon

Driving in this part of Provence is relatively simple. Distances are short, and there are plenty of places to stop.

Just be aware of a few things:

• Roads are narrow and can be curvy, and French drivers – especially if they know the roads and are in a hurry – can be mercurial.

• Our road rules are different from yours, and you do need to know the differences before you head off on your road trip. (This excellent online course will explain everything you need to know about driving here.)

• If you plan on renting a car, check out prices here (Renting in Avignon or at Avignon TGV train station is one of your best options.)

Where to stay in the Luberon

Whenever I head down to the Luberon from my perch in the foothills of the Alps, I head to Bonnieux.

It’s a lovely, medium-sized village with plenty of restaurants, decent parking (not everywhere, but any parking in a hilltop village is worth grabbing), oodles of charm, a nice Saturday market, and a location central to every destination on this Luberon itinerary.

The Clos du Buis in Bonnieux has a fabulous breakfast and a swimming pool for those hot Provençal days ©OffbeatFrance

I have three recommendations for you in Bonnieux:

• The mid-range Clos du Buis, near the village entrance and with plenty of parking nearby (friendly and cosy, with a fabulous breakfast)

• If there are several of you and you’d like your own apartment, my friend Kathy has the perfect place right across the street from the Clos du Buis

• If you’re in the mood for luxury, head for the Domaine de Capelongue, a countryside escape with Michelin-starred dining

Where to eat in Bonnieux

Since this itinerary is predicated on your staying in Bonnieux, here are some suggested restaurants for dinner for every budget. There are plenty of others, so don't hesitate to try!

Just make sure you check openings, because most close at least one day a week, and some are open for lunch only or dinner only.

Also, make sure you reserve. Good places are popular!

• Mid-range: Le Fournil (romantic setting)
• Luxury: Domaine de Capelongue (Michelin-starred)
• Casual: Brasserie Les Terrasses (great sunset views)
• Refined: La Bergerie (farm-to-table cuisine)
• La Terrasse (cozy, regional cuisine)
• Crêperie: Le Tinel (ice cream and crêpes, for a snack)
• Pizzeria: La Flambée (casual, affordable, and more than pizza)
• Un p’tit Coin de Cuisine (hidden gem with a local menu)
• JU - Maison de Cuisine (gastronomic)

Best time to visit the Luberon

It depends what you want to see!

Spring and early summer months bring wildflowers and bustling markets, while autumn offers golden vineyards and fewer crowds. Even in the heat of midsummer, the shaded squares and cool stone buildings provide a welcome retreat.

If you’re looking for lavender season, then you’ll want to go in summer, around June-July. I’ve also visited the Luberon in winter, a season I love because the air is clear and the crowds are nowhere to be seen.

I would steer clear of August, when it’s really hot, and during school holidays (here are France’s major holidays), when it’s time for family outings.

Before you go...

Oh, and one more thing: I've compiled this itinerary based on the area's must-see highlights (at least in my personal opinion) but I've also left out quite a few – it's only five days, after all.

If you want to push yourself, or are staying longer, here are a few additional places I'd put on my list:

• Saignon – Panoramic views, peaceful setting
• Saint-Saturnin-lès-Apt – Castle ruins, authentic feel
• Apt – Largest town, famous market
• Rustrel – "Colorado Provençal," unique ochre landscape (if you want more of what you'll see in Roussillon)
• Venasque – Ancient church, hilltop beauty
• Céreste – Roman history, off-the-beaten-path
• Ansouis – Château, vineyards, quiet charm 

The Luberon also has a more mystical side, filled with legends and stories which I've written up here. Sometimes, understanding a place's less visible past can help enlighten the present...

Did you enjoy this article? I'd love if you shared it!

🇫🇷

Bonjour! I’m Leyla! I was born in Paris and now live in the bucolic mountain foothills of Eastern France between Lyon and Annecy. 

I'm rediscovering my own back yard after years of living abroad in Canada, Spain and Switzerland as a journalist and a diplomat － and I'm loving every minute.

Passionate about history and culture, I’ve created Offbeat France to seek out my country’s mysteries and legends, less-traveled destinations, along with plenty of food stops and many castles － I am French, after all!

Read more!

🇫🇷

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