A day trip from dijon to the Auxois, the heart of burgundy

Semur-en-Auxois

The medieval streets of Semur-en-Auxois

If your idea of a medieval French village involves a fortress, ramparts and narrow twisty streets, then you've arrived. Legend has it the village was founded by Hercules, abandoned, and re-occupied by Germanic invaders during the 5th century.

First came the fortress and then, around it, a hamlet took shape, cascading from the castle to the river below. 

As the wars of religion ended, many of the defenses were destroyed, ramparts eliminated and moats transformed into gardens.

The château, seen from the hill across the river

Notre-Dame church in Semur

Semur-en-Auxois is what is called a "pays d'art et d'histoire", a land of art and history designated as important to France's cultural heritage.

Today you can walk through its medieval gates and along cobblestoned streets, admiring ancient homes and convents but also delving into science and culture: long known as the "little Athens of Burgundy", savants and scientists have called this town home for centuries. In fact, a trip to the eclectic municipal museum will unveil not only paintings and sculpture, but a world-class collection of catalogued fossils.

The 13th-century church, Notre-Dame, is a highly stylized Gothic build, complete with gargoyles and stained glass.

One of the best vantage points is the Pont des Minimes, the bridge across the river dominated by the fortress. 

Flavigny-sur-Ozerain

This village belongs to the network known as the "most beautiful villages in France", and has a delightful jumble of ancient streets and alleyways that have been magnificently preserved or restored.

As you walk around, the village might start looking familiar: that is because it was used as the backdrop for the movie, Chocolat. In fact, the small chapel of the 8th-century abbey in the village was restored courtesy of the film crew, in exchange for facilities during shooting.

The welcoming stone houses are still lived in, and if it's open, stop by La Grange for lunch. Sit outside and enjoy the comings and goings along the small square. The restaurant is hyper local, with producers doing the actual cooking, along with what seemed like all the members of the family. Here's more about Flavigny.

These are oeufs en meurette, a local specialty: poached eggs, with garlic and herbs, and a thick wine sauce (and some potatoes au gratin, of course!)

MuseoParc Alesia

In the year 52 BCE, Julius Caesar fought two decisive battles against the irrepressible Gauls. The first was at Gergovia, in Central France – the Gauls won that battle.

But the second one was here at Alésia, and Caesar subdued the Gauls in what would become the Gauls' last stand. From here on in, Rome would spread its culture across the land.

A tiny part of the ruins at Alésia, the last stand of Vercingétorix, leader of the Gauls. Photo courtesy Côte-d'Or Tourisme © R. KREBEL

The history of the battle, as well as that of the Gauls in the region, is beautifully showcased in the MuséoParc Alésia, an interactive museum a few kilometers from the actual site.

History is kept alive with re-enactments each year, Romans fighting Gauls at the height of summer (sweaty armour included). The exhibits are described in great detail and the museum is an important source of information for those of us curious about the history of the Gauls.

You'll spend 2.5 hours visiting these sites, about 1.5 hours for the museum, and a good hour getting to and visiting the ruins.

Château de Bussy-Rabutin 

Count Bussy-Rabutin was a respected military leader and courtier at Versailles, during that precious time when Louis XIV turned Versailles into the center of his universe.

But the count had a turbulent personality, falling in and out of love and acting out in excess to the point of attracting the king's attention. A few untoward undertakings (some sacrilegious, some merely lascivious) landed him first in prison at the Bastille, and finally into exile in this château.

The extraordinary château of Bussy-Rabutin is the product of those years of exile, and as you explore its hallways and rooms, you'll be overpowered by a range of emotions, the same ones Bussy-Rabutin undoubtedly felt beas he laboured to fix up his rural home: loss, rejection, love, jealousy, irony.

Visiting the grounds, the (remarkable) gardens and the château should take about 2 hours.