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Updated 5 July 2023 by Leyla Alyanak — Parisian by birth, Lyonnaise by adoption, historian by passion
Heading to Lyon? As someone who lives nearby and has explored the city extensively, I can recommend the top things to do in Lyon, whether you're a foodie, love attractions, or want to delve deep into 2000 years of history.
Lyon is often bypassed as holiday-makers zip past on their way to Provence. That is such a mistake!
Please stop if you possibly can, because Provence will still be there for you, and Lyon is worth your time.
I'm lucky – I live an hour away by train, in the countryside that is part of Lyon's Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes region. So when I want the electric energy of the city, I can be there by breakfast, spend the day, and return once they start cleaning the streets.
Visiting Lyon for the first time? Spending the weekend in Lyon, or just a day?
Lyon is a city built on history, from its Roman ruins and medieval architecture to its classical neighborhoods and modern creations. You can cross more than two millennia in minutes.
33 irresistible things to do in Lyon
Things to do in Lyon if you’re a foodie
Things the Lyonnais like to do
If you like to roam and explore
If you like going off the beaten path
Or if you just want to see the sights!
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If you're a Lyon newbie, this guide will show you around.
And if you're already addicted to the city, I just might be able to uncover a thing or two you haven't discovered yet (like this unusual pedicab tour or the cathedral's hidden astronomical clock).
Because this city has so much to offer, I've divided it into themes.
So here we go, Lyon for your every mood!
What is the city of Lyon famous for?
Food, of course!
That's why so many people call Lyon France's gastronomic capital.
Curnonsky − France's most famous 20th-century gastronomy writer − said so, and the famed “prince of gastronomes” should know.
Even some Parisians say so, and who’s to argue with them?
It started with the first “mothers”, women whose welcoming establishments (known as “bouchons”) fed the city’s silk workers. Equally famous is the late chef Paul Bocuse, native son, revolutionary proponent of Nouvelle Cuisine, voted chef of the century, and dubbed the Pope of French Cuisine.
Just in case you wanted to confirm Lyon's food credentials...
A bouchon, literally, means a cork.
Not in Lyon though. Here, a bouchon is a traditional eatery, serving typical Lyonnaise food.
These small establishments date back to the 19th century and were run by (mostly) women to feed the city’s silk workers.
No visit to Lyon would be complete without at least one bouchon meal.
Lyon's hearty, traditional cuisine is particularly rich, involves meat (usually pork), and often includes some sort of offal, possibly tripe. And no, you don't have to try it if you don't like it.
Many (though not all) authentic bouchons carry the label “Les Bouchons Lyonnais” (see the logo below), which guarantees they follow traditional recipes, use specific products, and provide a good ambiance.
Not all bouchons belong to the association, but if they do, it's a bit of a guarantee. If they don't, go with the client reviews.
If you're a vegetarian, well, it'll be harder.
There is at least one vegan food tour in Lyon, in the silk-weaving district, and Lyon's restaurants are increasingly offering vegetarian options, but the list of dishes is short.
To sample cuisine Lyonnaise, start with a “quenelle de brochet”. You’ll find it on most menus, and it’s a likable dish, not as offputting as offal.
A quenelle is basically a shape rather than a dish, rather oblong with rounded ends, a bit like a rugby ball. It is usually made of pike (brochet) and comes with a crayfish sauce, although there are chicken versions. It’s relatively light and flavorful, and a perfect introduction to local cuisine.
This is another likeable dish and easily found in bouchons and in regular restaurants – and typically local.
Have it as a starter or for lunch.
It is made of lettuce (frisée, if possible), bacon chunks, fried croutons and a poached egg, all slathered with vinaigrette.
If you take your dressing on the side, be aware that this is not customary in France and might be difficult to convey.
Try showing them this sentence: “La vinaigrette sur le côté, s’il vous plaît.” But no promises.
ARE YOU LOOKING FOR CULINARY BOOKS?
📖 Dirt: Adventures in Lyon as a Chef in Training
A fun read, a family memoir with plenty of heartwarming Lyon food experiences
📖 Simca's Cuisine: One Hundred Classic French Recipes For Every Occasion
An absolute classic with authentic French food recipes for every occasion
📖 Mastering the Art of French Cooking (2 Volume Set)
The cornerstone of every kitchen that styles itself as French
A fitting end to your bouchon meal would be something with pralines, much loved in Lyon. Our pralines, by the way, are probably different from yours: here, a praline is an almond dipped in pink caramelized sugar.
Try a praline tart, made of crushed pralines, delicious but a little hard on the teeth.
This is a relatively new dessert, invented a few decades ago to round off a bouchon meal. The pralines already existed – the only thing missing was the pie shell.
The Halles Paul Bocuse is the summit of foodiness in Lyon, a luxury indoor market with stalls and shops representing Lyon's top suppliers and artisans.
The moment you enter this exclusive, delightful, amazing Lyon food market, you'll be hooked.
The decor is banal at best, dark-ish at worst, but everything you sample will be exquisite perfection (with a price to match), from splendid escargots to seafood to all the makings for your French picnic.
I thoroughly enjoyed taking a private tour of Les Halles, which pointed me in the right direction for my first visit and showed me who was who. After that, I returned on my own… again and again.
To maximize your time here, here's a list of all the shops and eateries at Les Halles de Lyon, and here is the floor plan so you can find your way around.
Surrounded by so much food, why not learn to make your own?
You could spend the afternoon with a pastry chef or learn to pair wines with Lyonnaise specialties.
Or learn to make croissants or tarte tatin!
If you're going to dip your toes into French cooking, Lyon is a great place to start.
You can taste Lyon's foods on your own, but if you want to sample as much as possible and don't have much time, take a food tour in Old Lyon to sample some of the city’s specialties.
It can’t have escaped you that Lyon is surrounded by prime wine country – Beaujolais, Chablis, Côtes du Rhône and more.
Why not spend a few hours tasting some of these world-renowned wines?
Here are some suggestions for city wine escapes, from a few hours to a full day:
BEST WINE TOURS AROUND LYON
🍷 Half-Day Beaujolais Wine-Tasting Tour
If you’re keen on wines, this oenological workshop compares the best wines you’ll be tasting in Lyon’s restaurants, so you'll arrive prepared.
Summer evenings are crowded behind the Fourvière Basilica… this is when groups of local friends exchange the heat of the city below for a cool breeze and an expansive view.
They might bring a picnic, or grab something from the coffee shop (it closes a bit early for summer, at 8pm).
People who live in Lyon do love a good festival… and this one is becoming a favorite.
Each June, long lines of foodies await the opening of the gates of what has become an eating extravaganza of note, with the participation of some of the world's most starred chefs preparing... street food (but not only).
Here's my account of the festival, since I go every year. If you're visiting Lyon in June, you'll be in for a treat.
Around the same time as the Street Food Festival, the city turns into a musical event with the Nuits de Fourvière, named after the hill on which it takes place.
This is quite a magical event: concerts are staged against a backdrop of Antiquity, right inside the Roman amphitheater that was used for performances as long as 2000 years ago.
Big names in French music can be expected to perform, and tickets sell out quickly.
Visiting Lyon in December? There's one event to aim for: the annual winter light festival.
I do love a good light show, and this one is spectacular, with different artists showing off their stunning light creations each year.
Did I mention Lyon was a festival city?
It may be surrounded by wine but Lyon also happens to be a brewer of note, a tradition developed during the 18th century by immigrants from Germany.
Beer consumption rose and fell in the following years but interest in brewing is now growing and each April, you can sample local craft brews (and imported ones) at the Lyon beer festival.
Lyon has not one, but two rivers flowing through it, the Saône and the Rhône, so there is plenty of riverside action.
A favorite of locals is a summer evening outing to the houseboats, or “péniches”, moored along the water – for example along the Quais Victor Augagneur, des Etroits, Perrache, Rimbaud…
While French shopping habits still tend towards small neighborhood shops, malls are growing in importance, but none as much as this central Lyon behemoth, whose recent expansion has made it the largest downtown mall in Europe.
On weekends, it’s elbow room only but its multitude of shops, restaurants and entertainment venues mean there’s always something to do.
You can’t miss it – it’s right across the street from the Part-Dieu train station.
I have a weakness for Roman ruins and the ones in Lyon are particularly spectacular
Lugdunum, as Lyon was once called, was important to the Roman Empire during the first century BCE as the capital of the province of Gaul (which eventually grew into France).
The massive amphitheater is spectacular, along with the smaller odeon beside it. It's quite a feeling to clamber onto stones which, millennia ago, seated august Romans waiting for their entertainment to begin.
To get there, take the Funicular up from the Old town towards St Just and get off at Minimes. When you exit, turn right, walk a little and the ruins are on your left. Or, if you're up at Fourvière, walk downhill for five minutes (following the signs).
During the 19th century, Old Lyon was a dirty den of thieves, so insalubrious it was almost destroyed until local associations lobbied successfully for its preservation – and it was eventually included as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Old Lyon stretches inward from the west bank of the Saône to the lower reaches of Fourvière Hill.
With cobblestones galore, the area is stuffed with eateries and shops (and excellent ice cream parlors), particularly welcome on a hot summer day. One of the area’s main attractions are the local “traboules”, or not-so-secret tunnels that lead from one street to the next through a building.
In the evening, find a breezy terrace and enjoy some of Lyon’s culinary specialties. Even better if you can get a seat in an authentic bouchon!
And for something really different, why not an escape game that takes place in this centuries-old quarter?
One of the (many) nice things about Lyon is that it is divided up into easily distinguishable neighborhoods, with the Presqu'île (which means peninsula) leading the way for shopping and classical architecture. It is particularly attractive at night, when many of the classic buildings, such as the City Hall and the Courthouse, are illuminated.
This is also where you'll find the world-famous Opéra de Lyon, an unusual building: to enlarge and renovate the old structure, a semi-circular dome was built on top of it, marrying classical and modern architecture. It took me time to appreciate it but now I love it.
This neighborhood is also home to Place Bellecour, one of Europe's largest (and the site of the Lyon tourist office), and the Place des Terreaux, with its famous Bartholdi fountain.
You've probably heard it often enough: Lyon is the Capital of Silk. But what does that mean, exactly?
While Lyon's prosperity is now driven by newer industries, it was once highly dependent on silk. François I (Francis I) gave Lyon the silk monopoly, and Louis XIV made French silk indispensable by decreeing the cloth at his court must be made in France.
Silk temporarily fell on hard times during the French Revolution, only to be rescued by Napoleon. It went from strength to strength until the arrival of synthetic cloth in the 1880s drove the industry away.
But all is not said and done.
Young designers are forging ahead with new uses for silk and putting their hand to the restoration of historical textiles, while houses of haute couture still order their silk from Lyon. Up on Croix-Rousse Hill, which the silk trade called home, silk still thrives.
To follow in the footsteps of Lyon’s silk workers, take this silk tour through former workshops and historic silk passageways and learn about the trade that once put Lyon at the heart of European commerce.
A contemporary of New York’s Central Park, the Tête d’Or (Golden Head) is one of France’s largest urban parks (the Lyon tourist office says it is actually the largest).
There’s something for everyone here: corners where you can relax and play games, a zoo with 64 animal species, a botanical garden, and a rose garden. You’ll see plenty of families having a picnic, students taking a nap on the grass, or couples getting married!
PLANNING ON VISITING MUSEUMS?
If so, and especially if you're planning to use public transportation, consider getting a Lyon City Card for one or several days.
Lyon is full of the unusual, with places that make you look twice and stories and legends that make you shake your head in surprise and wonder.
If you’re melting in the summer and happen to be visiting the Old Town, step into the 12th-century Cathédrale Saint-Jean, whose largely sober interior is set off by a whimsical astronomical clock which used to strike the hour several times a day (it was vandalized in 2013 and as of this writing is under repair).
When you enter the church, head towards the altar on the left side. The clock is on your left just a bit before the altar. It may or may not be covered in scaffolding.
The fascinating Movies and Miniatures Museum is miniaturist Dan Ohlman’s passion project – and is in fact two museums in one.
The cinema section has more than 500 costumes and props from the world’s major film studios: Mary Poppins’ umbrella, anyone? How about the mask from “Mask”?
What really caught my eye, though, is the second museum and its exhibition of more than 120 hand-made miniatures. If you’ve ever eaten at Maxim’s in Paris, you’ll find it reproduced here, on a tiny scale, along with plenty of interiors from the famous to the merely familiar.
It is absolutely one of the most fun Lyon things to do, especially with kids but equally intriguing for adults.
One of the most popular things to do in Lyon Old Town (and also in Croix-Rousse) is to explore the traboules, or secret passageways.
They lead from one street to another, usually through a patio or hallway.
They were probably built to make it easier to carry water uphill from the riverside. Later, they would be used by silk traders to carry bolts of cloth from the workshops down to waiting ships below, avoiding rain in the process.
More recently, Resistance fighters used them to hide from the Gestapo.
These days, few – fewer than 50 – of the original 500 remain open to the public, but a private walking tour will take you to some of the iconic ones.
The Lyonnais themselves use these all the time to get from one street to another. Most are surrounded by dwellings, so avoid making noise. This way, residents won't complain and the few remaining traboules will stay open!
For World War II history buffs, the Deportation and Resistance History Center retraces the role of Lyon during the Second World War. It also happens to be located right inside the former Gestapo headquarters. The juxtaposition of the stories of Holocaust survivors and the stairs used by Gestapo officials may leave you somewhat uneasy.
If this era fascinates you, take advantage of a day walking tour that highlights Lyon as the capital of the Résistance.
The Musée des Confluences is an architectural flight of fancy amid Lyon’s mostly classical and medieval architecture. A bit like a futuristic ship, this large-scale anthropological museum sits at the confluence of the Rhône and Saône rivers. This lovely one-hour cruise will unveil it from the water, but wherever you see it from, it almost defies description.
In the museum's own words, it "tells the story of mankind and the history of life." Just go. And climb to the rooftop terrace for a view.
For even greater insight into Lugdunum's former inhabitants, immerse yourself in the Gallo-Roman Museum, right next to the amphitheater.
The museum is built into the hill above the amphitheater so it looks perfectly natural.
Of particular note are some near-perfect mosaics that once adorned the floors and walls of wealthy citizens' homes.
For many visitors, possibly the best things to see in Lyon are its 150 outdoor murals, extraordinary works of art that mostly unfurl above eye level.
You'll probably stumble upon a few without looking for them, like the Fresque des Lyonnais, and look for others without finding them.
Some depict famous Lyonnais, others show scenes from daily life, and yet others look like they've come straight from a science fiction movie.
Have a look at some of the best murals here.
After having roamed around the hill a few times, consider entering the crown jewel itself.
Its blinding white façade is a relatively new addition (1872) to the Lyon skyline. Its four towers stand for the cardinal virtues of Justice, Temperance, Fortitude and Prudence.
The building is an architectural oddity, as though its designer couldn't decide among Byzantine, Gothic and Romanesque styles. The result is eclectic but charming, with plenty to look at. Perhaps charming isn't the right word, but neither is serene. Go see it: it just works!
The basilica is made of two superimposed churches. The first, or Upper Church, is spacious and intensively decorated, with plenty of mosaics, columns, stained glass windows and marble, a true feast for the eyes.
A monumental staircase leads below to the lower church, erroneously referred to as the crypt (if it has windows, it isn't a crypt).
For a view even more striking than the one behind the basilica, take its Rooftop Tour but beware of the 300+ steps you'll have to climb to get there. If you're up to it, it's worth it. The tour is in French, but the view is universal. (They can organize tours in English if you have a larger group).
Are your eyes deceiving you, or is this a miniature Eiffel Tower?
No, you’re not dreaming.
It was built to house a restaurant during the 1894 Lyon World Fair but has been converted into a telecommunications tower. It sits right next to the Fourvière Basilica, so you can’t miss it.
Who knows, maybe Eiffel had a hand in its building…
One of the best spots for sightseeing in Lyon is to see the city from above, and as we’re already said, the best viewpoint is on Fourvière Hill, behind the basilica.
But riding the funicular is part of the fun. The steep little railway that climbs up from the Old Town is known locally as La Ficelle, the string. Just buy your ticket at the entrance.
I may have said it before, but Lyon is a city for walking. Wandering around on your own is a delight, but if your time is limited or you’re afraid you might miss something, take one of the city’s excellent walking tours.
While walking is one way to see the city, you may prefer something that moves slight more quickly!
How about cycling?
This grand tour lasts three hours and will take you all through the city.
But if you’re feeling slightly less energetic, a guided tour on an electric bike should do the trick. You’ll still have to work at it, but a lot less!
You’re undoubtedly familiar with the hop-on hop-off buses in many cities, and they’re popular for a reason.
By taking you around to the major sights, they allow you to get your bearings and to choose what to see and in which order.
Like other world-class cities, Lyon too has its hop-on hop-off buses.
➽ Don't forget to get your Lyon City Card for all public transportation and entrance to museums in Lyon!
Lyon lies at the heart of the region of Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes, one of France's largest regions (there are 18 in all). In these days of high-speed trains, Lyon can be under two hours from Paris, accessible on a day trip depending on which train you choose. The city does, however, deserve a lot more than a day.
And so do its environs! If you spend a few days in Lyon, make sure you take a day trip or two to some of the nearby cities or countryside.
Getting around Lyon is a breeze (as long as you're not driving!)
The city has an extensive and well-organized public transport system, the TCL, or Transports Communs Lyonnais. Here's their route finder, which I use often. I suggest you download the TCL app, available for both IOS and Android phones.
You can buy transport tickets from the ticket machines located at major stops and in the metro, perfect if you don't plan to visit any museums. Here are the different ticket options.
But if you plan to see the sights, consider getting a Lyon City Card, which includes transport along with many of the city's museums.
Cycling in Lyon is also an option and you can rent a bike from Velo'v. Yes, there are cars on the streets, but you can avoid a lot of them by using the smaller streets which, in Lyon, are thankfully plentiful.
HOW TO YOU PRONOUNCE LYON? AND SPELL IT?
Pronouncing this city can be tricky: it's lee-ON, although you pronounce the O but stop just short of the N.
Spelling it also uncovers a range of different interpretations.
Now you know: L-Y-O-N. Hope this helped!
Here are some suggestions to make your visit even more enjoyable!
TOP LYON CITY TOURS
➽ Vieux Lyon 4-hour Food Tasting Tour - for inveterate foodies and gastronomes
➽ Discover Lyon Walking Tour - to explore the essence of the city
LYON DAY TRIPS
➽ Golden Stones Beaujolais - heart of the Golden Stone villages for wine lovers
➽ Northern Côtes du Rhône - meeting the winemakers
➽ Beaujolais and Pérouges - wine tasting and a medieval village visit
WHERE TO STAY IN LYON
➽ Villa Florentine - stunning 5-star luxury overlooking the entire city
➽ Mi-Hotel Tour Rose - perfect apartments in historic Vieux Lyon
➽ Fourvière Hotel - elegant simplicity in a former cloister
➽ Hotel du Théatre - budget option in the heart of the classical district
Renting a car in Lyon? Compare prices here.
Traveling here by train? Book your ticket here.
To see the city, don't forget to book your Lyon City Card.
Lyon has a wealth of accommodation options in every budget. Using the map below will make it easy to find the right room or holiday apartment for your stay.
Booking.comVisit one of the city's fabulous museums, like the Confluence or one of the specialty museums, for example the Gallo-Roman Museum.
Visit the Fourvière Basilica, explore the tiny alleys of the Old Town or visit the Parc de la Tête d'Or.
This might surprise you but summer is NOT the best season to visit − it can be hot and stormy although on the other hand, hotel prices are lower. Winter can be cold and snowy BUT − Lyon in December is fun! That's when we have the fabulous Fête des Lumières, the brilliant lights festival during which buildings are clothed in light shows.
Otherwise, these are the best seasons to visit Lyon:
That said, I've visited Lyon in every season and it's a fabulous city, so even in the "not best" seasons, it is absolutely worth the visit.
There are plenty of things that are free in Lyon. The traboules and murals, of course, and the riversides (especially on market days). The Parc de la Tête d'Or and its gardens and zoo, and the ruins of old Lugdunum. The Fourvière Basilica is free, but you'll have to pay a few euros to take the funicular (or be brave and walk up).
If you plan to be in Lyon in December, you may be able to enjoy one of the most fabulous light shows in France, the Fête des Lumières, which takes place in the first half of the month.